Konya, in a-whirl of its very own
We t ‘s the cardiovascular system away from Poultry. Konya, a district out of so many souls, leg squats smack in the middle of Anatolia’s wild plain, enclosed by unlock, limitless prairie. Turkey’s very culturally old-fashioned area, Konya looks at first to get an area of strict headscarves and you will foreboding beards, of ostentatiously noticed pieties and you can forbidden beers. But uncovering Konya is easy – to own here, in the centre of one’s dated town, in the tomb out-of turquoise ceramic tiles, is Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is amongst the planet’s extremely comprehend poets. During their life, and because his death within the 1273, pilgrims attended to Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb is Turkey’s next really-decided to go to customers attraction following the Topkapi Castle from inside the Istanbul. Rumi are a mystic, an effective Sufi saint who treasured the religions, and you can whoever very own religion was like. Their followers would (but still perform) eradicate on their own in hypnotic trance and you can dance, often spinning such tops all day.
Discover a huge, unbelievable brand new civil auditorium in which this sensitive spinning peoples ballet is did, and you can people quantity of lovely glossy-eyed mystics for the carpet shop, cafes and you may medieval bazaars, every pleased in order to ask one to a personal zikhr
This type of whirling dervishes are in reality the new icon away from Turkey’s tourism tips, and you can drink teas on the Istanbul resort lobby viewing some worst bloke for the a large beige thought cap spinning for the amusement. Towards real thing, although, become heree in order to Konya therefore started to Turkey’s heart. Into the Rumi’s terms:
„Anyone who you may be, been Even if you are An enthusiastic infidel, a great pagan, or good fireworshipper, started Our brotherhood isn’t certainly one of depression you possess broken Your vows out of repentance a hundred times, become.”
Almost every season due to the fact 1983, I’ve been coming for the a few mil-or-thus tourists which visit Konya annually. Some are Turkish, some Iranians (just who allege Rumi since their own, as the the guy typed in their vocabulary and you may was born in eastern Persia) also result in the pilgrimage.
In lieu of making Konya a stop with the a coach concert tour, I would recommend getting for most months, soaking-up the feeling, food the Turkey’s top lamb, watching the most readily useful Seljuk buildings and you may – maybe – dropping crazy about Rumi. You can travel in the cheaply out of Istanbul, where there’s also a scruffy, atmospheric train, otherwise come by road. Konya is actually simple visited of your cave dwellers and you can carpet suppliers off Cappadocia.
Rumi showed up right here hot sГёt Kirgisistani jente because the an excellent boy, when Konya had already been a location for a few,000 ages. It actually was based by Hittites, who were been successful of the Phrygians, then Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the fresh leaders out of Pergamon and Romans, just who called the place Iconium. New orleans saints Paul and you will Barnabus both preached here, but because of the 1071 this new Seljuks, a Turcoman group, have been in charge, as well as their architectural legacy endures.
Its Karatay Medrese away from 1251 was a work of art regarding ornate tiling and you can harmonious domes. It’s now the newest Museum regarding Ceramic tiles and you will Ceramics, whose information retain the vibrancy and you will strike that they had whenever first discharged. Close by, the brand new Ince Minarali Medrese is the brand new Museum regarding Stone and Wood Carving, in fact it is way less inactive than I’ve managed to get voice. Both of these structures whet your appetite to get the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and the good Sahip Ata mosque: in the place of most of the fresh Muslim industry, in the Poultry you’re encouraged to go to mosques, any your religious choice.
At the junction of your dated area as well as unappealing the latest neighbour is the Alaaddin mosque, the latest city’s vantage part, whoever gorgeous black pulpit and delicate prayer-market come from 1155 (the newest state-of-the-art is actually completed in 1221). The fresh new boulevard radiating from this point will bring one Rumi’s tomb, where even more later. Rumi may Turks since Mevlana (the fresh new Sainted One to), now Konya is within thrall so you can Mevlanamania.
As i earliest appeared, Mevlana’s supporters, the latest Mevlevi, have been a banned organisation, accepted only for their „folkloric dance” and you will whirlings. Group meetings took place secretly, dishonestly.
I pointed out eating, as well. Konya’s mutton-centric cuisine is superb. Etli ekmek are a long, narrow roll-upwards pizza pass on which have delicately spiced mince, and Konya kebab are a mutton shank, very more sluggish roasted and you will served towards the a support from bread that have a sweet red onion. Top is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whose soups and you may do-it-yourself yoghurt try heaven-made.
Ergo, wonderfully given, and with of several cups of sweet tannic beverage inside you, create your answer to Rumi’s tomb. Your join the awestruck, brand new curious in addition to fervent. A mystical twinkly white plays to the tombs away from Rumi and you may his supporters. The newest structure was padded with calligraphy, therefore the ceilings is a great kaleidoscope out of splendidly carried out arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is covered for the significantly padded cloth regarding silver, and you may seems to glow light and serenity and you may compassion.
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Several of their fellow pilgrims will discover Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Extremely need photo, although this is purely taboo. You can find individuals who weep silently, and people who make fun of aloud; those who reflect all day long, and those who hurry through.
Playing quietly and you can insinuating itself to your understanding is the ney, a good reed flute. It sounds such breathy sky, but is actually the sound away from flames, and that increases and you may falls into the us. That isn’t some sullen religious whining, nevertheless the sound regarding craving, out of communion, of your own heart. You’ve got it – it is spirit audio, therefore extremely supplies you with. Therefore become.
Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies to help you Konya via Istanbul out of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and Manchester, of ?219 rtn inc taxes. Istanbul to help you Konya by railway can cost you throughout ?24 return, or just around ?thirty six go back because of the coach. Resort Balikcilar features rooms or about ?70 (while having caters to cool beers). Resorts Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) room to ?20. Entry to see this new whirling dervishes is actually clear of the fresh travelers place of work, behind Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum during the SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) organizes personal whirling and you may zikhr from ?30pp.